Wednesday, December 23, 2020

Stonegrindz Ecuador Esmeraldas 70% cacao

On first tasting the fruity profile of this chocolate is evident, reminiscent of plum with a slight hint of raisin. The label suggests jasmine as a flavor note, and I do recognize this floral aspect, though it is quite subtle. The aftertaste is sweet and smooth with a gradual tail off. 9.7

www.stonegrindz.com 

The label sports a Bronze award from the 2019 International Chocolate Awards, World. This is quite appropriate for this well made, flavorful bar. I have had experience with "stone ground" bars in the past and I do not prefer the rough texture of those bars, so I was initially put off by the name of this bar's maker, "Stonegrindz." However Jack at Chocolate Covered assured me that this was not a stone ground bar, and indeed it is not.

Thursday, December 17, 2020

Goodnow Farms Costa Rica Coto Brus 73% cacao

This bar has a bright burst of flavor with the first taste. The flavor is fruity, echoing raspberry and plum. The bitterness is low to mild, though the aftertastes ends with a bitter tinge. The overall experience is excellent.  9.6

Friday, December 11, 2020

Sirene Mexico Soconusco 73% cacao

This is a robust, bold flavored bar, with a big earthy and roasted taste profile. The roasted aspect tends towards charcoal and the earthiness borders on dirt. Bitterness is high and the aftertaste is long. The texture of the bar is slightly grainy as it melts.  7.2

www.sirenechocolate.com

The label includes a note which explains that the grainy texture is due to a hot roast used to make this chocolate.


The bar also has a nice mold design.

Saturday, November 28, 2020

Cacaosuyo Peru Cuzco 70% cacao

This bar makes a strong entrance, with bracing cacao flavor, edging towards nuttiness. The aftertaste is lightly bitter and lingering.  9.0

www.cacaosuyo.com

This is the first bar from Cacaosuyo I have tasted. The wrapping is nicely done, with notes about the Incas and the importance of cacao to them.

Sunday, November 22, 2020

Palette de Bine Trinidad Le Réunion 70% cacao

This bar is very flavorful, having cherry flavor with a jammy texture. The bar is quite thin, contributing to the dissolve which brings out the flavors. Aftertaste is short but sweet. 9.1

Sunday, November 15, 2020

Escazú Venezuela Trincheras 70% cacao

This bar has a stark and bitter initial taste. The profile is roasted, with coffee and charcoal notes. The aftertaste is length and dry. 7.2

Wednesday, November 11, 2020

Escazú Venezuela Piaroa 73% cacao

This bar has a dark cherry flavor with a slight tang reminiscent of spice cake.  It is fairly dry in the mouth, which usually results from a high cacao content, though this bar is mild at 73%. Aftertaste is lengthy and echoes the spicy element. 8.0

Saturday, November 7, 2020

Escazú Venezuela Patanemo 80% cacao

This high-cacao content bar has a dry, but not very bitter, initial taste. The profile of the flavors are earthy, on the leathery side of the palette. If there is a fruit element to the taste it would be fig, but a faint note of that. The aftertaste is also dry and tails off gradually. 7.5

Saturday, October 31, 2020

Fresco Dominican Republic Öko Caribe Recipes 212 2017 and 2019 Harvests

Fresco's product strategy makes it easy to compare recipe variations across different cacao origins. Chococheck has recently checked out several of these mixes with Fresco Dominican Republic Öko Caribe Recipes 212 and 224 and Fresco Guatemala Polochic Valley Recipes 250, 251 and 252. The subject of this post is a comparison of the same origin and the same recipe across different harvests of cacao. The 2017 bar was reviewed as part of the first review mentioned above. Now it can be compared to the 2019 harvest.

 

2017 Harvest

In my prior review I wrote: "This bar has a sharper edge, with a bitter taste at the front. The flavor leans to the earthy side of the palette due to a toasty note, but there is also an element of fig in the mix." While the flavor comments match my current experience of the bar, I do not notice the sharp, bitter taste on initial tasting.  The experience is smoother and the aftertaste is cleaner. 8.5


2019 Harvest

I notice a spicier note on initial tasting of the 2019 bar. It is slightly peppery, not at all dominant but enough to be interesting. The fig flavor is present, but fainter. I am not noticing the toasty nature as strongly. The bitterness is moderate and the aftertaste matches this. 8.2

Tuesday, October 27, 2020

Dick Taylor Jamaica Bachelor's Hall 75% cacao

The bar has a high cacao percentage, which results in a dry initial taste which is mildly astringent. There is a note of apricot and clove. There is a lengthy aftertaste which is also dry but mild. 7.8

Wednesday, October 7, 2020

Potomac Columbia Tumaco 70% cacao

This bar has a fruity first impression. The fruitiness has some raspberry and strawberry taste. The bar's texture is smooth and the finish is clean. 9.3

This completes my tastings of a trio of single-origin bars from Potomac Chocolate. The packaging has come a long way from when I reviewed bars made as a result of a successful Kickstarter campaign to purchase a tempering device. The chocolate molds have also advanced. Previously the mold was a simple block with horizontal cuts to assist in snapping off a piece. The improved mold builds on the design of the label with the fish school theme.

Wednesday, September 30, 2020

Potomac Uganda Semuliki Forest 75% cacao

This bar has a smooth entrance, quite gentle for 75% cacao.  The flavors are buttery with a creamy taste. The background note echos of plum.  The aftertaste is short and sweet. 9.1

Wednesday, September 23, 2020

Potomac Peru Ucayali River 70% cacao

This bar has a very robust cacao flavor and is quite bitter for a 70% bar. The front taste is roasted, with a charcoal tinge in the mix. A lesser taste is an earthy, woody note. The aftertaste is lengthy with a tapering echo of bitterness. 7.8

I tasted an earlier Peru bar from a different plantation from Potomac: Potomac San Martin Peru 70% cacao. I noted in that review that the bar tasted more bitter than I have come to expect from a 70% cacao bar, just as I noted for this bar.  From my experience with the Fresco bar I would conclude that this bitter profile comes from a "Light" roasting level which I suspect is being used for these bars. The Fresco description of Light roasting is "just enough to soften the cacao's raw, acidic edge." This lines up with my experience with the bars.

Saturday, September 19, 2020

Fresco Guatemala Polochic Valley Recipes 250, 251 and 252

There are three bars in this review, the three Fresco Guatemala bars. Recipe 250 is "Light Roast" and "Long Conche." Recipe 251 is "Medium Roast" and "Long Conche." Recipe 252 is "Dark Roast" and "Long Conche." So the variable for these bars is the roasting.  The label reports that for Long Conche "flavor peaks and valleys soften to a melodic harmony."

The effect of varying roast levels taken from the label is listed in Fresco Dominican Republic Öko Caribe Recipes 212 and 224, except for Dark: "Full bodied, bold, intense, new flavor notes can develop while others may be subdued."

Recipe 250, Light Roast and Long Conche

This bar's flavors have an element of molasses with a baseline of rum raisin. There is little bitter bite, so the aftertaste is gentle. 8.8

Recipe 251, Medium Roast and Long Conche

This bar's flavors baseline tends towards balsamic, with a spice cake dimension in the background. The bitterness is slightly elevated, with a corresponding longer aftertaste. 8.4

Recipe 252, Dark Roast and Long Conche

This bar presents a softer initial flavor which has a buttery toffee taste, and an undertone of leather. The bitterness is low and the aftertaste follows the toffee note. 8.1

Monday, September 7, 2020

Dandelion Madagascar Ambanja 2017 Harvest 70% cacao

This is the third harvest of this cacao from Dandelion that I have tasted.  Previous reviews are:

As would be expected, this bar has a similar taste profile as the other harvests. There is a raspberry flavor note with a lemony finish. This bar is consistently at the top of my taste ratings, and I will bump the rating for this edition. 9.5

The label notes vary from prior editions: "For this bar she [Julia, listed on the label as "Roast profile by Julia"] brought out notes of raspberry cheesecake and lemon zest."


Thursday, September 3, 2020

Fresco Ghana Recipes 260 and 261

This post  compares two recipes of the Ghana 68% cacao.

Recipe 260, Light Roast and Subtle Conche

This bar had a deep cacao flavor, with a molasses base. There is little bitterness to the taste. 7.7

Recipe 261, Dark Roast and Medium Conche

The cacao note is softer with this bar (than with Recipe 260). The base has moved to a caramel flavor, while the bitterness is still low. 8.3

Saturday, August 22, 2020

Fresco Dominican Republic Öko Caribe Recipes 212 and 224

This review will do a comparison of two Fresco bars manufactured with different recipes. Recipe 212 is "Light Roast" and "Subtle Conche." Recipe 224 is "Medium Roast" and "Medium Conche." The label for these bars explain the effect of varying the roast and conche.

Roast

"We slow drum roast cocoa beans for each chocolate batch to develop unique chocolate flavors. LIGHT - just enough to soften the cocoa's raw acidic edge. MEDIUM - cocoa flavors develop to be balanced and flavorful."

The third roasting option is "DARK" which is not used for these two bars.

Conche

"Heat, motion, aeration & time produce chocolate's final flavor; this is conching. Adjusting these variables can produce dramatically different flavors. SUBTLE - softens primitive edge while retaining aggressive flavor notes. MEDIUM - balance between aggressive and subdued, mellow."

The other conching techniques are "NONE" and "LONG."

Recipe 212, Light Roast and Subtle Conche

This bar has a sharper edge, with a bitter taste at the front. The flavor leans to the earthy side of the palette due to a toasty note, but there is also an element of fig in the mix. The aftertaste is long as a result of the bitter taste. 7.9


Recipe 224, Medium Roast and Medium Conche

The descriptions above for moving from light roast and subtle conche to medium roast and medium conche imply a softer taste for the resulting chocolate. This comes through clearly with Recipe 224. The front taste is softer, but still has a strong cacao note. The flavor palette moves to buttery with a butterscotch note. The secondary flavor is reminiscent of olive.  The aftertaste is strong but softer, with a less bitter tail. 8.6

Sunday, August 9, 2020

Fresco Peru Marañón Recipe 229 70% cacao

This bar has a very fruity profile, with raspberry and concord flavors. It is also very smooth with a clean aftertaste. 9.0

The previous bar from Madagascar is 74% cacao bar which was produced with light roast and medium conche. This bar from Peru is 70% cacao produced with medium roast and long conche. I like this Peru bar considerably better -- but it it not clear whether it is the cacao percentage, the roast or the conche which has produced that result. The remaining bars from Fresco may help clarify these differences.

Saturday, August 1, 2020

Fresco Madagascar Sambirano Recipe 214 74% cacao

In 2012 I tasted a selection of bars from Fresco Chocolate. The company uses different manufacturing processes with the same cacao, resulting in different tastes and flavors. I enjoyed those tastings and it is time for another round. I purchased a variety of bars from Fresco for a 2020 tasting:


The first bar to taste is Recipe 214, Madagascar 74% cacao with a light roast and medium conche.

The bar has a rich cacao flavor, tinged with charcoal and burnt sugar. The aftertaste is strong and has a long tail. 7.7

Saturday, July 18, 2020

Seahorse Fiji Rakiraki 75% cacao

 The back of the label suggests this bar's flavors include "brownie batter and caramel," stamped on the bar apparently after manufacture. The front label reports "brownie batter, apricot." Indeed, there is a buttery caramel flavor, but I am missing the brownie batter taste. Instead I notice some earthy elements, with a mushroom element. This bar is fairly gentle on the bitterness side, with a relatively short aftertaste. 8.0

Ingredients: Cocoa beans, organic sugar

$11 / 2 oz (56 g)

www.seahorsechocolate.com

Tuesday, July 7, 2020

Kasama Papua New Guinea Karkar Island 70% cacao

This bar has full body and presence. It has a touch of spice cake as well as toast in its flavor palate. The aftertaste is lengthy, with a bitter tinge. 7.8

Ingredients: Cacao Beans*, Unrefined Cane Sugar*, Cacao Butter*
* Organic

$14 / 55g (1.94 oz.)

kasamachocolate.com

The label notes that this bar has taken the Silver in the International Chocolate Awards for both Americas and World for 2019.

Wednesday, June 24, 2020

Maraná Peru Quillabamba 70% cacao

This bar has a basic cocoa flavor, with a fairly high bitter bite. The tang echos of charcoal or burnt sugar. 7.0

Ingredients: Organic cacao mass, organic sugar and organic cacao butter. Cacao: minimum 70%

$9 / 2.5 oz (70g)

www.marana.com.pe

The taste is disappointing for this bar, which is both grown and made in Peru. Many bars with a Peru origin tasted on ChocoCheck have been highly rated, with fruit notes noticeable.

Friday, June 19, 2020

White Label Unganda Semuliki Forest 72% cacao

This bar has a fruity profile, on the plum and fig side of the pallet. It has fairly low bitterness, leading to a short aftertaste experience. 9.0

$12 / 2.3oz (65g)

Monday, June 15, 2020

White Label Madagascar Bejofo Estate 68% cacao

This bar opens with a fruit-forward taste, citrus and berries. Bitterness is quite low, so the flavors have time to develop. As the fruit flavors fade, a caramel profile emerges, which lasts into the aftertaste. 9.1

Ingredients: Cacao Beans Organic Sugar, Organic Cocoa Butter

$10 / 2.3 oz. (65g)

The label of this bar reports that the cacao is from the Akesson Plantation in the Sambirano Valley of Madagascar. I have previously tasted the Åkesson's Madagascar 75% cacao and find that my tasting notes are quite similar to my notes for the White Label bar.

Tuesday, June 9, 2020

White Label Tanzania Kilombero 68% cacao

This bar has a smooth, buttery texture, with a pop of raisin flavor and a bitter edge of toasted coconut. The aftertaste rings with this bitter tinge but resolves cleanly. 8.2

Ingredients: Cacao Beans, Organic Sugar, Organic Cocoa Butter

$10 / 2.5 oz (65g)

White Label has detailed information about the origin and context of the cacao bars. The note indicates that the producer is Kokoa Kamili, and the cacao is grown in the Kilombero Valley of Tanzania.

Thursday, June 4, 2020

Chequessett Tanzania Kokoa Kamili 72% cacao

This bar is creamy and fruity. The fruit flavors tend towards berries, and the cream flavor has butterscotch notes. The aftertaste is clean with a short tail. Delicious, as is often my response to Kokoa Kamili cacao. 9.6

Ingredients: Organic cacao beans, organic evaporated cane juice, organic cacao butter

$11 / 2.25 oz.

Tuesday, June 2, 2020

Chequessett Bolivia Palos Blancos 72% cacao

This bar has a roasted profile, reminiscent of cooked pudding. There is also a smooth, buttery butterscotch taste. It has fairly low bitterness, but the aftertaste has a persistence that stays with you. 8.7

Ingredients: Organic cacao beans, organic evaporated cane juice, organic cacao butter

$11 / 2.25 oz.

This is the first bar from a batch I ordered from my local craft chocolate store, Chocolate Covered. It is the best store in San Francisco for finding a wide variety of chocolates.

Wednesday, May 27, 2020

Dandelion Honduras Wampu 70% cacao

This is a very flavorful bar. There is a fruity taste, on the apricot and plum side of the palette. This gives the bar a sweet profile, which is bolstered by a low level of bitterness.  9.2

The label notes say: "We taste classic dark chocolate, macadamia nut, and honeycomb." The sweetness I taste may translate into the honeycomb mentioned on the label, but I miss the honey part.  I do not taste macadamia nut, but as for "classic dark chocolate," well, sure.

Saturday, May 23, 2020

Dandelion Belize Maya Mountain (2017) 85% cacao

I am tasting the Dandelion Belize 85% at the same time I have tasted the Belize 70%. Certainly the 85% cacao bar is richer and more bitter then the 70%. This, of course, is why one buys the 85% bar over to 70%. So this bar delivers the punch. There is a similar roasted taste profile, with some charcoal and coffee components.

I am not sure how the taster who writes the label notes gets these flavors: "In the bar, we taste notes of ripe tropical fruits, honey, and buttermilk."  Once again, as with the 70% bar, I taste none of this.  7.4

Thursday, May 21, 2020

Dandelion Belize Maya Mountain (2017) 70% cacao

I previously reviewed Dandelion's Maya Mountain chocolate in this post: Dandelion Belize Maya Mountain 70% cacao. That bar was made from the 2014 harvest of that plantation, whereas the present bar is from the 2017 harvest.

In that post I noted that the chocolate was "fairly bitter." The 2017 bar is also bitter, with a charcoal tinge. The label reports: "In this bar, we taste honey, sweet strawberry wine, and chocolate ice cream." I taste none of that. 6.9

Friday, May 15, 2020

Omnom Nicaragua 73% cacao

This bar has a bitter edge to it, which smoky roasted taste. Yet there is a buttery aspect, with a taste of toffee in the mix. Aftertaste is lengthy due to the bitter bite. 7.3

Ingredients: Organic cocoa beans from Nicaragua, organic cane sugar, cocoa butter, sunflower lecithin (E322)

$8.99 / 2.1 oz. (60g)

I purchased this bar directly from Omnom on-line. It was a "care package" for the days of staying at home. I posted a Tweet showing all of the bars I purchased.

Friday, May 8, 2020

Åkesson's Brazil Fazenda Sempre Firme 75% cacao

As this chocolate dissolves, a taste of toffee is prominent. Some cherry flavors arise in the aftertaste, which is moderately bitter. 9.1

Ingredients: Cocoa (min. 75%), cane sugar, pure cocoa butter, emulsifier (GMO-free soya lecithin).

$9 / 2.2 oz. (60 g)

The label sports two awards -- the Academy of Chocolate award is fairly clear, but what is "Great Taste 2017"? Checking out their website, one can find that it is a British group focused on identifying fine local foods.  While Åkesson's is based on London, the label indicates that the bar is made in France.

Monday, May 4, 2020

Honduras Chocolate Company Honduras 70% cacao

This bar has a rich chocolate flavor with a charcoal edge. Caramel has a strong presence in the flavor profile. While there is some bitterness on the front, the aftertaste is smooth and mild. 7.8

Ingredients: Naturally Grown Cacao, Pure Cane Sugar.

www.HondurasChocolateCompany.com

The label prominently proclaims "Never Bitter." It also says they take the BITTER out of Dark Chocolate. However an important element of dark chocolate is the bitter aspect. Many people do not like a lot of bitterness, but even a 90% cacao has fans. No need to throw shade on the bitter edge!

Tuesday, April 28, 2020

Letterpress Costa Rica Hacienda Azul 70% cacao

This bar has earthy and roasted components. There is a sharp tobacco tinge, accompanied by a coffee touch. These give the bar some bitterness, but the resolution in the aftertaste is moderate. 8.3

Ingredients: Cacao Beans*, Unrefined Cane Sugar*
* Certified Organic

$11 / 2.1 oz.

Saturday, April 25, 2020

Omnom Madagascar 66% cacao

This bar has a crisp snap and a crunchy chew. The taste is sweet, with caramel flavor with a touch of fig. The aftertaste is short and on the sweet side. 8.2

Ingredients: Cocoa beans from Madagascar, organic cane sugar, cocoa butter, sunflower lecithin (E322).

$9 / 2.1 oz

Wednesday, April 15, 2020

SOMA Crazy 88 Dark Chocolate 88% cacao

This bar is quite bitter, as would be expected from an 88% cacao chocolate. It has a roasted profile, edging on charcoal. The aftertaste is persistent and continues as bitter. 8.4

Ingredients: Cacao nibs, Organic cane sugar

$13 / 2.3oz (65g)

When a chocolate maker includes their own tasting notes on the label, I usually include them as comments to the main post.  However, if the notes vary significantly from my experience of the bar, I include them in the main post with comments on how my experience differs.  For this bar, the notes are: "Tasting notes: black tea, balsamic vinegar, fresh cream, lemon, jasmine, apricot, toast." Quite a list!

My experience for these is:
  • black tea: black tea can be fairly bitter, so I can see this as an element of the taste
  • balsamic vinegar: this is also on the bitter side, but has a flavor dimension which I did not notice
  • fresh cream: I had no experience of this with the bar
  • lemon: this is also missing from my tasting
  • jasmine: I consider this a floral note, and I did not notice any floral aspect to the bar
  • apricot: this is a fruit note, and while I did not notice any fruitiness, apricot can have an edge which might pertain to this bar
  • toast: if the toast was well toasted on the dark side then I would agree, given my charcoal comment
The label also notes the the cacao which makes up this bar comes from three origins: Hacienda Victoria in Ecuador, Ucayali in Peru and Canoabo in Venezuela.

The bar's mold is also worthy of a photo:

Tuesday, April 7, 2020

Keller Manni Peru 75% cocoa

This bar is made with extra-virgin olive oil, and would not be a candidate for review on ChocoCheck. However we recently (early March) visited Thomas Keller's The French Laundry, so this bar caught my eye at the store.

The olive oil taste dominates the experience, taking the lead over flavors which could have been found from the Peru-origin cacao. The label suggests "notes of orange blossom and quince," which I can agree with.

Ingredients: Organic cocoa beans, organic cane sugar, organic Manni extra-virgin olive oil, organic soy lecithin.


Our dinner at The French Laundry was superb from beginning to end, and we felt lucky to be able to enjoy it when we did.

Friday, April 3, 2020

Castronovo Mexico Soconusco 70% cacao

This bar has a buttery profile, with a hazelnut taste. It has a very nice cacao flavor, and the aftertaste is mellow. The label mentions several flavors: plum, walnut, citrus and vanilla. I could see the vanilla aspect from the buttery profile, but the plum, walnut and citrus flavors escape me. 8.9

Ingredients: cocoa beans, cane sugar*, cocoa butter*
*organic ingredients

$13 / 2.2 oz.

Saturday, March 28, 2020

Goodnow Farms Peru Ucayali 70% cacao

This bar has a buttery texture, with a spicy flavor thread which has a nutmeg element. The aftertaste is clean and tapers quickly. 8.9

Ingredients: Single Origin Cacao Beans, Organic Cane Sugar, Single Origin Cocoa Butter

$12 / 1.94 oz

www.goodnowfarms.com

The label of this bar shows three awards, two silvers and a bronze. Both the interior of the wrapper and the website have a lot of details on the company and how they make chocolate.  They also have a nice mold for their bar.