Mast Brothers Papua New Guinea 71% cacao

Rich earthy flavor, with hickory and a touch of maple. Fairly bitter, but the other flavors compensate to keep the focus. 7.9

This is the final ChocoCheck of 2013 — best wishes to all chocolate lovers! Here's to many more tastes in the New Year.

Mast Brothers Belize 70% cacao

When I first tasted this bar I noticed some fruit flavors, cherry predominately. With further tasting that flavor fades to the background with a strongly bitter note dominating. With that comes earthy flavors and walnut. 7.4

The label mentions "notes of raisin, plum and sarsaparilla." The cherry that I noticed could be a blend of raisin and plum I suppose. As for the sarsaparilla, I need to find some to try, as I have not tasted it in a while.

Rogue Chocolatier Bolivia Silvestre 75% cacao

A robust chocolate with an above-average bitterness for this cacao level. Fruit flavors peep through on chewing, but are less prominent when the chocolate melts without chewing. The label mentions "plum, jasmine, banana." I agree with the plum as the fruity component, but I'm not experiencing the other two flavors. 7.8

Castronovo Nicaragua 72% cacao

Another excellently made bar from Castronovo Chocolate. The initial impression is of bright cherry, but this shifts to more earthy flavors. The label mentions "savory notes of walnut." I can see the nutty element, though walnut did not initially come to mind. I tasted this bar with a glass of Port, and enjoyed both immensely. 8.2

Castronovo Peru San Martin 70% cacao

This is an exceptional bar, flavorful and well made. Fruit is the first impression, more cherry than citrus. The bar has a crisp snap and a nice design on the surface. A lot of flavor is packed into a small bar. 9.6

www.castronovochocolate.com

Pascha Peru Organic 70% cacao

This bar has a definite bitter aspect. It is slightly musky, perhaps better called "earthy." These elements linger in the aftertaste. 6.7

This is one of the few single-origin bars that is made and poured at the origin, rather than shipped as beans to another country for manufacture. The challenge to this is that the finished bar is more fragile than the raw beans.

paschachocolate.com

Santander Columbia 53% cacao

Sweet. This bar has more sugar in this bar than the 70% cacao bars I mostly taste, and it does come through. There is also a smoky-maple flavor that adds a bitter-sweet aspect. The aftertaste is more sweet than bitter. 7.7

Ritual Madagascar 2011 75% cacao

Very nice flavor profile. This is a typical Madagascar chocolate. Typical, that it, when the the bar is well made. Bright, fruity flavors (some cherry, some raisin, some citrus), moderate bitterness, clean aftertaste.  Very crisp snap when breaking the bar. 8.4

Valhrona Venezuela El Pedregal 2012 64% cacao

With a 64% cocoa content, this bar has low bitterness and a gentle profile. There is some nutmeg flavor, but cocoa is the dominant theme. Clean, but short, aftertaste. 7.9

Alce Nero Costa Rica 71% cacao

Noticeable bitterness on initial taste, but the aftertaste is easy and clean. Honey flavor is underlying the cocoa. 7.1

Just noticed that I also reviewed this bar in 2011. I rated it a bit higher than I do now, and I mention orange notes that I'm not tasting now.

Shokomonk Extra Bitter 77% cacao

Rich cocoa flavor, fairly low bitterness and a gentle aftertaste. This is a good, basic bar. 7.2

I picked up this German made bar at a local liquor store. I have seen different bars in other liquor stores as well, so I make it a habit to see what chocolates are carried when I visit one. Dark chocolate goes well with red wines (port in particular) and I also understand some people like it with whiskey.

www.shokomonk.de

Bridge Brands America's Cup Dark Chocolate Drops 55% cocoa

I hope you have been watching the 2013 34th America's Cup campaign taking place here in San Francisco. Yesterday, Oracle Team USA completed a massive comeback from to even the score with Emirates Team New Zealand. On Wednesday, September 25th, those teams will compete in one race that will determine who will hold the America's Cup. I recommend that you tune in at www.americascup.com to catch this race as it happens.

One of the products for sale at the America's Cup store at Pier 27 is this box of dark chocolate drops with America's Cup labeling. The drops are made by Bridge Brands, a San Francisco company that was previously called San Francisco Chocolate Factory. I posted a link to an article on the company's founder in a prior post.

The chocolate drops are average. The packaging is nice and the America's Cup races have been superb. Here's to keeping America's Cup in the USA!

Fresco 217 Venezuela Chuao 70% cacao

While the side flavors are muted with this bar, there are some to notice. Blueberry and caramel are two that I taste. There is some bitterness initially, but the aftertaste is about average for a 70% cacao bar. 7.7

The label indicates that the "roast" is "dark" and the "conche" is "medium." The only other Fresco bar that I have tasted with the same "settings" is the Fresco 210 Jamaica, which I rated very high at 8.9.

Fresco Madagascar 214 74% cocoa

I have tasted two other bars with a Madagascar origin from Fresco. Both were quite tasty, but this one really nails it. On first tasting the bar I experienced a burst of flavor, leading with a sweet raisin and plum. There is no bitterness and the aftertaste is fairly short, but it is sweet.  This bar will certainly go well with any drink or food you may want to enjoy it with. 9.7

The package includes a label indicating that this bar was a "Good Food Awards" winner for 2012. Given my response to the bar, I have to concur! Congratulations, Fresco, for a bar well done.

Potomac Costa Rica Upala 82% cacao

Fairly bitter, but balanced with other flavors, wood, bread, okra. Some chalkiness, with an aftertaste that is active, but short. 6.8

Potomac San Martin Peru 70% cacao

Quite puckery for the cocoa content of this bar. This dominates the taste experience. The flavors that come through are from the pine forest. The aftertaste continues to persist with bitterness. 6.2

I taste bars on their own for my initial impression, but after this first tasting I poured myself some port. This greatly enhanced my enjoyment of the remainder.

Askinosie Tenende Tanzania 72% cocoa

Though the initial impression is fairly bitter, this moderates with time. Some dried cherry flavors then assert themselves, with a hint of almond. The aftertaste is not long lasting, with some astringent aspects resulting from the initial bitterness. 7.7

Askinosie Davao Philippines 77% cocoa

Fairly bitter, though nicely balanced with the cocoa. Some faint flavors underlie the cocoa, making this bar full of interest. The flap of the wrapper for this bar has YOU MIGHT TASTE emblazoned on it: "brown sugar, earthy tannins and lavender."  I taste no brown sugar, but the bitterness may be interpreted as "earthy tannins." The lavender flavor is not what I would have noticed, but there may be a subtle element of lavender in the mix. 8.1

Madre Hamakua Hawaii 70% cacao

No real excitement in this bar. Basic cocoa, some bitterness, not much else. Very little aftertaste. 7.1

madrechocolate.com

$12.50 / 1.5 oz.

Once again I must note the cost of this bar, the last of the trio of Hawaiian chocolate bars I purchased recently. It seems that this bar is pricey due to the low volume of cacao from the 50th State, not due to the exquisite taste. Interestingly, the Waialua Estate bar, which was under $10 for a slightly larger bar (2 oz.) gets the best results.

Madre does make up in style what it is missing in taste interest. The bar was shaped in a mold that displayed some cool polynesian images.

Waialua Estate Oahu Hawaii 70% cacao

The taste starts off sweet, but opens into a wide rage of floral and fruit flavors. On the floral side I am reminded of freesia. On the fruit side I taste cherry (rainier, not bing) and kiwi fruit. A very nice mix. Low bitterness, and a comfortable aftertaste. 8.0

www.WaialuaEstate.com

This bar has an "E. Guittard" logo embossed on the bar. The only other indication of Guittard's provenance comes from that company is a mention on the label notes: "This rare, award-winning chocolate is crafted by Guittard Chocolate Company for Dole Hawaii." Smart move by Dole to enlist Guittard in making this bar.

Manoa Hawaiian Crown Estate Hamakua Hawaii 72% cocoa

Significantly bitter and slightly metallic. Hints of coffee and possibly pineapple, though the latter gets lost in the former. 6.9

manoachocolate.com

One significant item to mention about this bar is the price. At $10.50 for a 1.5 oz. bar, it is pricey. I purchased this bar, plus the bars that will be following over the next number of posts, at Cocova in Washington, D.C. (mentioned in a series of posts I made last year). They were hosting a chocolate tour while I was there, apparently a popular activity in tourist havens. While I do not know of any tour that takes San Francisco visitors around to our local chocolate makers, I do know that Tcho and Dandelion make tours available.

Atelier Isabelle Costa Rica 71% cacao

Focusing first on the chocolate, this is a very well made bar that breaks with a crisp snap. There are earthy flavors at the forefront, with a modest level of bitterness. The aftertaste is nicely balanced and encourages further consumption (one taste and you cannot put it down). 8.4

Turning to the packaging itself, this is a beautifully wrapped bar, and makes a fine representative for my town, San Francisco. Alterlier Isabelle is a local chocolate manufacturer, though located in the east bay, not in The City itself. I purchased the bar at that stalwart San Francisco merchandiser, Gumps, $15 for a 3.5 ounce bar. A nice souvenir for a visit.

www.AtelierIsabelle.com

Flyer Very Dark

Rich cocoa flavor that complements a glass of Port nicely. Not complex, but delivers on the promise of a well-made bar of consumer chocolate. 7.0

www.flyercandybar.com

Maglio Peru Tingo Maria 65% Cacao

While the cocoa flavor is very assertive, there is a nice fruity background to this bar. A hint of pear and a dash of lemon come through. The aftertaste is mild, but rich. 8.1

The packaging for this bar is novel. It is a small 3 inch square package for a  50 gram (1.76 oz) bar. Just the right size to carry with you for a treat.

E. Guittard Venezuela Sur Del Lago 65% Cacao

Clean taste, very comfortable in the mouth. Nicely sweet, with a touch of cherry. Very short aftertaste. 7.7

It's been a while since I taste single-origin bars from E. Guittard. I previously tasted their Quevedo and Quetzalcoatl bars, but my ratings were single-digit then. I rated the latter a "7" and the former an "8". This bar fits within that range. Quite tasty, fine for everyday consumption!

Amedei Porcelana 70% Cacao

Dreamy. That was my first response when tasting this bar. Sweet and smooth, reminiscent of a Creamsicle® (though no orange flavor here). There is a background bitterness that does not interfere with the experience. The aftertaste rapidly falls off, but the dreamy memories persist. 9.5

I usually put the "notes from the label" as a comment to the review, but in this case the information about the special beans used with this bar is worth a mention here:

From the label:
"White, delicate and fine. Earning it the name Porcelana, it's a pure-bred "Criollo" cocoa, of which only 3000 kilos is made a year. Amedei has the honour of growing it, making it into an incredible flavour, among the most aromatic, well rounded and harmonious found in the book of chocolate."

Marcolini Carré2 Mexico Tabasco 72% Cacao

Nice flavor profile with cherry and raisin notes. There is moderate bitterness that supports those flavors, leading to a gentle but lasting aftertaste. 9.0

Marcolini Carré2 Brasil Bahia 78% Cacao

The bar has a bitter punch that takes no prisoners. The bitterness last long in the aftertaste. Flavors noticed include coffee and earth-tones (nuts and wood). Well made, but the bitter profile slides the bar off of my preferred rating scale. 6.8

www.marcolini-eboutique.com

Maglio Extra Bitter 81% cacao

The jump of percentage of cacao from Maglio's Bitter (60%) to Extra Bitter (81%) is steep, but the actual jump in bitterness is modest. Whereas Bitter had almost no bitterness, the Extra Bitter is bitter, but nicely so. Strong cocoa flavor with a trailing aftertaste that has a component of bitterness. The bar has some small nibs embedded that do not affect the taste. 7.7

Maglio Bitter 60% Cacao

Bitter, this bar is not. It is very mild, relatively speaking, which is not too surprising for a 60% cacao bar. The bar has strong cocoa flavor, and a short aftertaste that is, again, mild. The bar appears to be well made, nicely packaged, and unremarkable. 7.5

Dandelion Venezuela Patanemo 2012 70% cocoa

Rich cocoa flavor with some faint cinnamon notes. Low bitterness and a nice finish. 8.3

Dandelion Venezuela Cumboto 2012 70% cacao

Another excellent bar from Dandelion.There is a burst of flavor on first taste -- citrus, cherry, perhaps even some raisin. This settles down into a clean cocoa experience with these side flavors slowly diminishing. Very little bitterness and the aftertaste has a steep gradient that flattens to a very pleasant remainder. 9.2

Pharmaca Organic Dark Chocolate 78% cacao

If 70% cocoa is healthy, than 78% cocoa is healthier, yes?  

Compared to the Pharmaca Organic Dark Chocolate 70% cacao, this bar moderates the less wonderful aspect of that bar. The cocoa flavor is less dominant, but still strong. Some earthy flavors come through. The metallic undertone is also less, though still noticeable. The astringent aspect is entirely missing, leaving the usual bitterness seen in a rick dark chocolate bar. The aftertaste is fairly clean and well tapered, though bordering on chalkiness. 7.0

Pharmaca Organic Dark Chocolate 70% cacao

The primary cocoa flavor dominates this bar. Slight metallic tone is also felt. Fairly astringent, which informs the bar's fairly light bitter dimension. 6.6 

Pharmaca is an "integrative pharmacy," for which I found this definition: "Relating to a multidisciplinary, holistic approach to medicine that combines conventional treatments with alternative therapies such as homeopathy or naturopathy." I wandered into this pharmacy while visiting Cole Valley, specifically with the goal of seeing what chocolate bars they carried.  I was surprised that they had their own brand label. I take it that they have done this due to the purported health benefits of dark chocolate as an "alternative therapy."

What health benefits? Well, here is one article on this, and I am sure you can find many more if you search the web for "health benefits of dark chocolate." This is an alternative therapy that I can get behind. Stay healthy!

Theo Coconut Curry Milk 45% cacao

This blog is dedicated to reviews of dark chocolate, and only dark chocolate. I have made an exception a couple of times, reviewing Recchiuti's Dark Milk and Scharffen Berger's Dark Milk, as well as a dark chocolate bar with "adulterations," in that case cranberries (The Chocolate Tree: Cranberry 55% cacao). Today's exception, though, illustrates why I focus on pure dark chocolate.

During my trip to Seattle where I purchased the two Theo bars just reviewed, I was gifted a third bar.  This bar is milk chocolate and is also made with the addition of coconut and curry. I cannot evaluate the chocolate, as it is overwhelmed by the curry spice. I often talk about "aftertaste" when reviewing other bars. This bar's aftertaste is a burning sensation that persists long after the last swallow.  I think I may need to drink a glass of milk to neutralize it. The coconut is less disruptive, but adds very little to the bar. I do not detect coconut flavor, so I assume it has been added to give the bar texture. That it does, but this is not beneficial in my judgment.

My overall experience with this bar confirms my focus on pure dark chocolate. That is not to say that chocolate mixed with other ingredients cannot provide a pleasant experience. I tasted a dark chocolate bar with orange flavor from Teuscher this weekend and enjoyed it quite a lot. However by focusing on the chocolate alone I can rate the quality of the base ingredient that is then used in those bars. I rated the pure dark bars from Teuscher pretty highly when I tried them earlier, so I felt confident that the orange bar that I purchased would have a good start from that. (It has been a few years since I've tried the Teuscher line, so maybe it is time for another review of full retinue.)

Now where is that glass of milk...

Theo Organic Fair Trade 70% cocoa

This bar is quite similar to its "big brother," the Theo Organic Fair Trade 85% cocoa reviewed previously.  Much less bitter, with a more relaxed aftertaste, but shallow in flavors other than basic cocoa. Faint raisin and even fainter cherry notes can be nuanced from the bar as it melts. 6.6

I picked up this bar (along with Big Brother) at the Theo factory in Seattle during a trip in April. The store is in the attractive little brick building shown here, while the factory is located in an adjoining building. I did not have time to take the tour, but I browsed the store.

The store is very spacious, with product set out around the floor, and a counter with truffles available to one side.

Being in Seattle, perhaps it is not surprising that this bar has many indications of "goodness" on the label: Organic, Fair Trade, Non-GMO Verified. I do value when cacao farmers around the world are traded with in a fair way (meaning without fraud or coercion), though I am less convinced that "organic" has much value and not convinced at all that GMO (genetically modified organism) food is problematic.

I would also say that NOT labeling a product as "fair trade" does not indicate that those companies are trading unfairly with their producers.

Theo Organic Fair Trade 85% cocoa

A straight-forward bar. There are no undertones or side flavors of note. At 85% cocoa, this is a very bitter chocolate.  Minor chalkiness follows this profile, and the aftertaste is driven mostly by the bitterness. Not for the casual consumer.  6.0

I have not tasted a Theo bar for nearly three years. I have not seen them at my usual chocolate bar acquisition locales. Last month I visited the Theo factory store during a visit to Seattle, and was hoping to find some interesting bars.  However I did not find any single origin bars, and just two pure-dark bars, this one and a 70% bar that will be reviewed next. Most of the other bars on sale were various bars with sea salt, chilies or other additions.

Baron Chocolate Dark 70% cocoa

The bitterness of this bar is like a punch in the mouth. It makes you take a step back and wonder what just happened. There is nothing subtle with this bar. It has heavy cocoa flavor, and I am going to reach for that "chalky" description once again. The aftertaste is slightly metallic and tapers off fairly quickly, but not quickly enough. 5.6

www.baron.pl

Alter Eco Dark Blackout Organic 85% cocoa

Somewhat bitter, but less so that you might expect. Some mild fruit flavor, mostly cherry. Aftertaste is subtle, but it is distinct and persistent. There is some "chalkiness" to the mouthfeel of this chocolate, which is a term I have not used in quite some time. I use it to describe when the cocoa does not dissolve and dissipate quickly, leaving the mouth feeling dry and puckery. 6.7

www.alterecofoods.com

Dandelion Chocolate Frozen Hot Chocolate

Sounds like an oxymoron, right? Frozen Hot Chocolate. Dandelion Chocolate opened a store last year in San Francisco's mission district, and in addition to selling their bars and holding chocolate making classes, they have some liquid confections.

It was a hot day yesterday, so it seemed like a good day to try out their Frozen Hot Chocolate. As you can tell from the picture, it is a glass of cocoa with a thick layer of cream on top. Within the drink are small bits of ice, which presumably remain from the cooling process.

It was very refreshing. The cocoa has a clean taste, was well blended and lacking any bitterness.  It certainly hit the spot!

Here is a review of the drink from the Zagat site. And here is a comment about the drink on Yelp.  Finally, here's a picture from inside Dandelion's store:

Antidote Raw Roasted Organic Ecuador 84% cacao

There is a dull thud when biting into this bar. The mouth-feel is rough, as though there are many micro-nibs as the chocolate melts. At 84% cacao, it is no surprise that this bar is bitter, though there is a steep drop-off in the aftertaste.  The most prominent flavor profile that I notice is an earthiness which I have found to be common among other Ecuadorian chocolates. 6.2

This bar is identified as "Raw + Roasted." Raw chocolate is not heated. I have tasted two raw chocolate bars and had very different experience with them.  The Fine & Raw Ecuador 78% Cacao got an extremely low 4.5, which is the "barely edible" range of my scale, whereas the Fearless Raw Organic Dark Midnight 75% cacao rated a 7.4, which is in the "enjoyable" range.

According to the Antidote website, "Raw + Roasted" means half of the cacao in the bar is raw and the other half is roasted -- seeking the best of both worlds.  Raw chocolate is supposed to have been nutritional elements, whereas the roasted cacao may taste better. This bar is closer to the Fearless than the other, so perhaps it has achieved a compromise taste, but I do not see myself revisiting this bar.

www.antidotechoco.com/

Valrhona Gran Couva 2012 Trinidad 64% cocoa

There is a crisp snap when biting into this bar. Cocoa flavors dominate. Very low bitterness, and an aftertaste that continues the cocoa theme. A respectable bar, not complex. 7.4

On my prior post I shared a photo of the view I was enjoying while tasting the Dick Taylor Madagascar bar. While reviewing this bar I am enjoying another inspirational view, the Sonoma coast. I hope I am objective enough to not let the view influence the review!

Dick Taylor Madagascar 72% cacao

A strong citrus flavor is present, but a surprising chalkiness can be noticed in the finish. This sours the taste experience. Not very bitter, and not much of an aftertaste. 7.2

I expected to really like this bar after my experience with the Dick Taylor Belize Organic 72% cacao bar, to which I gave one of my highest ratings.  I shared this bar with friends while sipping a robust Cabernet Sauvignon, and it did pair well enough, though the chalkiness that I mentioned above was there.

We were sitting on the roof top of the building where one of my friends lives and had a spectacular view of my city, San Francisco.

Soma Dark Peruvian 64% cacao

A woody aspect is my first impression of this bar. It develops into a sweeter, cocoa baseline. The bar has a lighter cocoa content, so bitterness is low and the aftertaste is clean with a rapid fall-off. Not remarkable, but a nice, solid chocolate bar. 7.3

www.somachocolate.com