Thursday, December 2, 2010

Rob's Really Good Life Changing Italian Dark Chocolate 72% cocoa

With a name that includes "life changing" in it, this chocolate has set a pretty high bar for itself. Does it reach it? No, but it's a quite respectable bar. There some slight chalkiness, but no dominating bitterness. There is sweetness, but it is not cloying. There are slight citrus notes, but no strong flavors. The wrapper has a cute "user guide" that I'll post in a comment.

Maybe not life changing, but certainly life enhancing. 7.5

Saturday, November 27, 2010

Madecasse Madagascar strong & complex 80% cocoa

This bar had a uneven surface texture, which means it may have experienced some damage from my keeping it in my roll-bag for two months. So it may not be the best representative of this chocolate.

The chocolate had little side flavors and had a sharp bitter edge. 6.2

I tasted the bar with my niece and her family, and these are their ratings:

Michael -- it is okay, not special 5
Will -- really dark 4
Dianna -- bitter, don't like it 3

Sunday, November 14, 2010

Amedei Chuao 70% cocoa

This chocolate has a rich aroma, a cherry background flavor and a nice crisp snap when broken. Minimal bitterness, with a very clean aftertaste. One of the nicest chocolates I've tasted. 9.5


Sunday, November 7, 2010

Neuhaus West Africa 73% cacao

Earthy flavors with a forthright bitter aspect. Appears to have very small cocoa nibs present. Very smooth finish, with the bitterness almost gone by the time the chocolate is melted in the mouth. 6.9

This was the "Poker Chocolate" for 4 November 2010.

Sunday, October 17, 2010

Cuorenero Nativo Bolivia 70% cacao


This chocolate has a novel form. Though it comes in a square-ish box, the chocolate is round, with break points making sixteen wedges. It's a nice design, which would facilitate sharing. The bar (round?) has a crisp snap when broken, so it's nicely made.

The chocolate itself is slightly bitter, with nutty flavors (walnut?). Little bitterness in the aftertaste, but the cocoa flavor does stay with you. 7.7


Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Amano Madagascar 70% cacao

This is a classic Madagascar chocolate. Intensely fruity, flavorful, low bitterness, nice finish. So far I have not met a single-origin Madagascar chocolate I did not like. 8.2

$6.99 for a 2 oz. bar


This bar has a mini-tasting guide that I did not see in the previous Amano bars I have tasted: Amano Jembrana Handcrafted Dark Chocolate 70% Cacao and Amano Ocumare Grand Cru Dark Chocolate 70% Cacao.

Here's the guide:

Amano Mini Tasting Guide

Fine chocolate is like fine wine: is can be appreciated for the flavor nuances that it evokes. Each chocolate tastes different depending on the type of cocoa bean used and the chocolate maker's art. Some cocoa beans taste fruity, and they bring that taste to the chocolate. You will be amazed at the wide variety of flavotrs to be enjoyed in high-quality chocolate.

Tasting Steps

Chocolate is best tasted when your taste buds are clean. If you need to clean your palate, a palate cleanser such as sparkling water, and apple slice, or soda cracker will help clean your mouth and taste buds.

First examine the chocolate. The surface should be free from defects. It should be shiny in appearance.

Listen. When you break it, it should make a sharp snap sound. Let the chocolate warm between your fingers slightly.

Smell it. Is the aroma fruity? Spicy? "Roasty" like coffee? What pleasurable sensations does it remind you of?

Place a piece of chocolate in your mouth and let it melt. Don't chew! The flavor of chocolate changes as you eat it. What flavors do you initially taste? How do they change with time? How long can you taste the chocolate afterward? What is its final flavor?

If you are trying many kinds of chocolates, use a palate cleanser to clean your mouth and taste buds in between chocolate tastings. Get some friends together and hold a chocolate tasting party!

Happy Chocolate Tastings,
Art Pollard
Founder / Head Chocolate Maker
Amano Artisan Chocolate

Sunday, October 10, 2010

Rapunzel Organic Extra Dark 70% cocoa

Robust but not overpowering bitterness, resolving into a sweet citrus flavor. 7.4

http://www.rapunzel.com/

Saturday, October 9, 2010

Feletti 1882 Cioccolato Fondente Ghanna 65% cacao

A nice, even cocoa flavor, warm and earthy. 7.1

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Feletti Cioccolato Fondente Tanzania 75% cacao

This bar' s bitter start is supported quickly by citrus and cherry flavors. The after-taste is nice, with the fruity flavors winning over the bitter bite. 7.6

Monday, September 27, 2010

Feletti Cioccolato Fondente Ecuador 67% cacao.

Rich cocoa flavor, with some bitterness when chewed. The bitterness fades as the chocolate melts, leaving that same cocoa flavor as the dominant aftertaste. 6.4

Saturday, September 18, 2010

Scharffen Berger Extra Dark 82% cacao

Sharply bitter, no nuance. Lingering, bitter after taste. Earthy flavors dominate. Probably best experienced with a Port. 6.2

Later update:
I did try this with a Port over the weekend -- it stood up to the rich flavor of that drink, but it did not enhance the experience as much as other fine chocolates have for me in the past.

Sunday, September 12, 2010

Pacari Ecudorian Organic Raw 70% cacao

Very sharp and bitter initial taste. But this resolves into tangy flavors as the chocolate melts. There is a distinct cherry note that asserts itself as the bitterness tails off. This is an interesting and complex bar. 7.9

Galler Heritage 85 85% cocoa

Rich cocoa flavors. Some bitterness, but nicely balanced with the cocoa. No noticeable side flavors. 6.8

Sunday, August 29, 2010

Pacari Ecuadorian Organic 72% cacao

This bar has a lot going on. There are strong citrus notes that remind me of Madagascar chocolates that I like so much. I also taste vanilla and almond flavors. Very low bitterness, and the aftertaste finishes quickly and gently. Exceptional. 9.1

www.pacarichocolate.com

Thursday, August 26, 2010

Coppeneur Ocumare Venezuela 72% cocoa


Earthy, chocolate with an edge. Walnut flavors and other nuttiness are strong. Finish is a noticeably bitter. 7.0

This is an expensive bar, and it is packaged to fit the bill. The flap is sealed with wax, and there is a 40 page booklet included inside. The text is in German and English, with pictures of cocoa beans, cocoa plantations and Coppeneur products.

When I opened the bar, I was impressed by the design imprinted on the bar's surface. It is an image of a cocoa bean with the Coppeneur logo. It was almost too pretty to eat. But I overcame that reluctance.

The salesperson at the store where I bought this bar highlighted how rare and sought-out Ocumare cocoa is. I've tried other Ocumare chocolate, and have liked it. See the post for Unique Origin Ocumare Criollo Cocoa which I rated an "8". Also see Amano Ocumare Grand Cru which I rated as "7". Yes, I like Ocumare bars, but I have not been strongly "wowed" by them.


www.coppeneur.de

Friday, August 20, 2010

Askinose Soconusco Mexico 75% cocoa

Fairly bitter, but balanced with rich chocolate flavor. It gets your attention, but does not put you off. Earthy flavors abound. 6.9

I had reviewed another of Askinosie's bars earlier, their San Jose Del Tambo Ecuador bar, and gave it a very high rating. Askinosie is clearly a consistent producer of high quality bars.

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Cowgirl Mild Dark 55% cocoa

Mild is a very good descriptive word for this chocolate -- it's quite mild and fairly sweet. There is no bitterness, and no chalky texture, something I've seen in other chocolates with this percentage of cocoa. I cannot taste significant side flavors -- perhaps a slight hint of almond. 6.1

cowgirlchocolate.com

Sunday, August 8, 2010

Cocoa hedge fund

This is an interesting article on a hedge fund that trades in cocoa:

The Economist: Sweet dreams





Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Theo Organic Madagascar 74% cacao

A brisk Madagascar chocolate with strong fruit flavor. Very little bitterness, and a short, mostly sweet, aftertaste. 7.3

Sunday, August 1, 2010

Meet the chocolate factory boss

This article appeared in today's San Francisco Chronicle and is about the owner of a local chocolate company, the San Francisco Chocolate Factory. If you've visited wineries and found some tins of little chocolate discs to pair with wines, those likely were made by this company.

Mike Litton, San Francisco Chocolate Factory

Friday, July 30, 2010

Michel Cluizel 1er Cru de Plantation "Vila Gracinda" São Tomé 67% cocoa

This bar has a very different flavor profile from the other Michel Cluizel chocolates I've tasted. This one is much more nutty and there are, perhaps, some coffee elements. Not very bitter, but certainly tart. Quite a long aftertaste. 6.5

Slitti GranCacao 73% cacao


Rich cocoa flavor, edging towards earthy. Fairly bitter, so this chocolate is somewhat challenging to the uninitiated. A true organoleptic experience. 6.7

Thursday, July 22, 2010

Neuhaus São Tomé 74% cacao

Nice, lively chocolate. Hint of raspberry. Clean taste, low on bitterness. The finish is clean with echos of the fruit theme. 7.5

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Amedei I Cru Ecuador 70% cacao

Very crisp snap when broken. Fairly bitter compared to other Amedei I Cru bars tasted recently. Interesting flavors during tasting -- no citrus or fruit. The flavors are earthy, reminiscent of nutmeg. There's a gentle finish, but edging towards metallic. 6.8

Additional note, July 25, 2010
When I first tasted this bar, I had just taken some medicine that may have affected my sense of taste. I saved a few pieces of this bar and tasted them today. I'm happy to report that the metallic taste is gone, and the bitterness that I noticed on first taste is reduced. I've revised the rating up to 7.2

Sunday, July 18, 2010

Trader Joe's Organic 73% super dark 73% cocoa


Very similar to other TJ's chocolates that I've tasted at this cocoa percentage. Some chalkiness is apparent, but there is some side-tone notes of citrus. No bitterness, with little aftertaste. This would be fine if not for the chalky texture. 6.2

Sunday, July 11, 2010

Theo Organic Costa Rica 91% Cacao

I expect chocolate with this high percentage cocoa to really punch one's mouth with bitterness. This bar has a punch, but it's a gentle one. The bitterness starts slowly, doesn't peak highly, and tapers gently. Not much chalkiness either. There is not much side flavor -- there's little room for it in the overall strong chocolate taste. The label talks about "bright fruit and nutty flavors" -- I do not taste any fruit elements, but I can see how one would get nuttiness -- maybe walnut.

If you are looking for a chocolate with strength but not one that's over-muscled, this one will do. 6.7

$3.99 Tower Market, SF

www.theochocolate.com

Friday, July 9, 2010

Astor Washington DC Dark Chocolate

Last week I visited the Washington, DC area, and came across this bar at the airport gift shop. Being a "completist" in the area of dark chocolate, I felt obligated to purchase the bar. A person should not expect a lot from novelty chocolates, so I approached it with an open mind.

No cocoa content percentage is mentioned on the label, so I would guess it's between 50% and 60%. There's a strong milky element, likely to make it familiar to the casual chocolate eater. You will not find very much bitterness here, but the chocolate does liven your palate with sharp, nearly acidic, activity.

This is not a great bar, but it's not an awful bar either. With lowered expectations, you may find this souvenir of your trip to Washington a good snack on the plane ride home. 5.8

Thursday, July 8, 2010

Amedei I Cru Jamaica 70% cacao

Dark, but sweet. Very little bitterness, clean taste. A hint of orange flavor, along with a jot of almond. 8.0

Wednesday, July 7, 2010

Amedei I Cru Grenada 70% cacao

A strong fruity flavor, cherry. Smooth taste throughout, nice finish. Subtle bitterness, not intrusive on the experience. 7.8

Saturday, July 3, 2010

Mast Brothers Dominican Republic 81% cacao

This chocolate has two faces. When it melts in the mouth, the initial experience is intense bitterness. This evolves into a chalky texture and no noticeable side flavors.

The other side of this bar is seen when chewed. The bitterness does not have time to present itself and the chalkiness is not seen.

My recommendation: chew this bar. 6.2

Tuesday, June 29, 2010

See's Candies Premium Extra Dark 62% cacao

Rich cocoa flavor -- pretty bitter for a 62% chocolate. Coffee flavors are noticeable. 6.1

www.sees.com

Monday, June 28, 2010

Dagoba Rich Dark 74% cacao

Quite bitter for a 74% cacao chocolate. When chewed, few side flavors have a chance to escape. When the chocolate is allowed to melt in the mouth, some subtle flavors can be noticed. Dried cherry is what presents strongest to me. 6.7

Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Tcho "Nutty" Peru 70% Cacao

I've liked other Tcho chocolates ("Citrus" and "Fruity"), but the "Nutty" style has a prominent metallic taste. Yes, there are side flavors, and there might be some nuttiness to it. But they are overwhelmed by the unpleasant metallic overtone. 4.5

Monday, June 21, 2010

Recchiuti S'Mores Kit

When I visit family, I often stop by the Recchiuti store in the Ferry Building to pick up some treats. I also may pick up a box for myself, and this was the case that resulted in my possessing a Recchiutti S'Mores Kit.

Truth be told, I have a well developed fondness for Recchiuti's packaged S'Mores Bites. More truth, I have previously purchased their S'Mores Kit and had less than wonderful results. I was not eager to attempt again to replicate the wonderful S'Mores Bites that I can buy any time I want at the Recchiut store. But finding myself with the kit, I decided to take a stab at putting together a S'Mores worthy of the Recchiuti kit.

The Kit comes packaged with four items: A package of marshmallows, graham crackers, a bar of Recchiuti Bittersweet 85% cacao dark chocolate, and instructions. Complicated, this is not. The instructions are the also simple, and perhaps a little enigmatic. Two methods are presented, "In the Kitchen" and "In the Open Air." Presumably the latter is intended to be used around the campfire. I was "In the Kitchen," so my first thought was to use these instructions, and a similar attempt resulted in the underwhelming results from my earlier attempt. My oven's broiler was not working, so this, combined with unhappy memories, steered me away from this option.


The Open Air instructions required me to toast the marshmallows and place them on a graham cracker-chocolate stack. Okay, so it would not result in the same fine confection I am used to with the S'Mores Bites, but let's give it a try. I toasted the marshmallows over the flame of my gas stove, and was able to produce a respectable brown cover. I placed it on the stack and took a bite. It was okay, but nothing special. I'm sure the effect would have been improved (in some dimension) if I had been dodging smoke and sparks from a campfire.

Once more into the breach. The S'Mores Bites are enrobed in their coat of chocolate, and the only way to achieve this, thinks I, is to melt the chocolate and pour it over a graham cracker-marshmallow stack. Melting chocolate is best done with a double boiler, so I concocted a small one out heavy duty measuring cups. The chocolate melted nicely, and I poured the results over the stack.

As you can see, the results were quite respectable. I let the arrangement cool off in the kitchen for a little while, and then placed it in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes or so. After achieving sufficient hardness in the outer shell, I gave it a taste and was not disappointed. No, it was not nearly as well put together as an official S'Mores Bite -- just buy them if that's all you want! But it was a fun project that had tasty results.

Sunday, June 20, 2010

High Attitude Chocolate "Solo" 60% cocoa

When I opened the package, I saw a lot of discoloration -- likely damage from exposure to air or moisture. But this didn't seem to harm the taste too much. I'm not a fan of lower cocoa dark chocolates, for which this 60% bar qualifies, but initial and mid-level tastes were very engaging. Fairly earthy, some nuttiness. I think the latent damage showed up in the aftertaste, which trailed off in a chalky residue. Due to the discoloration, this may not have been a good representative of the product. 6.2

Bissinger's All-Natural 60% cocoa

This bar has a similar presentation to the Bissinger's 75% cocoa bar tasted earlier. The "milky" aspect is more pronounced, and the overall flavor palette is less complex. Not much aftertaste to this bar. It's a good enough effort for it's ambitions, but not what I'm looking for. 6.0

Monday, June 14, 2010

Dagoba Dark 59% cacao

Fruity burst on first taste, resolving into more earthy flavors. Some milk chocolate structure in the aftertaste. Well crafted, though less chocolate punch than I like in my dark chocolates. 6.6

dagobachocolate.com

Saturday, May 29, 2010

Chocolove Organic 61% cocoa

I have been a fan of Chocolove bars: The Rich Dark 65%, the Strong Dark 70% and the Extra Strong Dark 77% cocoa bars. I've also liked the love poems included in these bars -- a nice bit of whimsy to go with the treat.

Some of this is missing from the organic offering from Chocolove. There is no poem, though there is a note about the making of the bar. At only 61% cocoa, maybe I'm missing some of the punch I've come to expect from the other bars. The "chalky" texture is prominent, which is less pleasing to me. There are some subtle flavors, most notable when the chocolate melts quietly in the mouth. There's a faint cherry flavor, certainly. The bar has very little bitterness, which is to be expected from the low cocoa content, so the finish is smooth. 6.6

Friday, May 28, 2010

Bernard Castelain Intense 77% cocoa

I usually read the comments that the manufacturer puts on the label after tasting the bar, but this time I happened to read this quote first: "The richness of cocoa from South America and Africa develops a bitter note in the mouth. The ideal chocolate."

Bitterness is indeed a significant element of dark chocolate -- it enhances the resonance of the chocolate flavor, lengthens its duration, and can provide a framework upon which other dimensions of the bar are displayed. But simple bittnerness does not in itself make a chocolate bar "ideal." The bitterness needs to be mediated and managed to produce an overall pleasant effect. The ultimate in bitterness is pure cocoa, also known as unsweetened chocolate, also indicated with "100% cocoa." Most people do not find 100% pure chocolate the ideal chocolate, though everyone will likely describe it as "bitter."

This bar does display the bitterness they advertise, but there's little else that's going on. The bitterness lasts a little too long, and there is no nuance to the experience. It earns the title "Intense," but it has a way to go to earn the title "ideal." 6.4

www.chocolat-castelain.com

Monday, May 24, 2010

Bissinger's All-Natural 75% cocoa

This bar presents itself like a milk chocolate, though it is clearly labeled as 75% cocoa dark. Certainly there's a bitter edge, though it falls off nicely in the aftertaste. The overall effect is not entirely to my liking. 6.3

Valor Dark Chocolate 70% Cocoa

Strong chocolate taste with an edge of bitterness. Earthy flavor, some walnut notes. Respectable. 7.1

Sunday, May 16, 2010

madécasse "mellow & subtle" Madagascar 67% Cocoa

First taste of this bar is slightly metallic, but that fades fairly quickly. There are some cherry notes, not much else. So I agree with the "subtle," but the initial metallic taste harshes my "mellow." 6.9

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Feodora Grand'Or 75% cacao

Strong chocolate flavor with some slightly metallic elements. Not very bitter. 6.5

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Valrhona Les Grands Crus Guanaja "bittersweet & elegant" 70% cacao

My first impression from this chocolate is spiciness -- a piquant burst on first taste. This is followed by some bitterness that builds a strong chocolate presence. There is a lengthy taper of flavor as a result as the chocolate melts. 7.0

Tuesday, May 4, 2010

Valrhona Les Grands Crus Alpaco "floral & oaky" 66% cacao

A richer chocolate taste than the Caraibe -- warmer and smoother. The bar describes itself as "floral & oaky" -- I taste the oakiness, but the floral part escapes me, though perhaps there are some floral notes when I sniff the bar. There's a quick finish to the taste due to the low bitterness -- so there's no lingering memory of the experience. Very tasty. 7.1

Monday, May 3, 2010

Valrhona Les Grands Crus Caraïbe "balanced & velvety" 66% cacao

A gentle dark chocolate -- very little bitterness. Some floral flavors, some fruity. Not much "snap" when breaking the bar, but it has a nice even color and appearance. 7.3